This is the home of the PRIUS+ PHEV DIY (Do-it-Yourself) documentation. These pages are currently anonymously editable, which may change in the future. Please feel free to use the Discussion page for general discussion and commentary on the main article. If you would like to add to an existing section use the "edit" link near that topic's heading. Don't forget to use the Summary field to describe your changes. While editing use the "Show Preview" button to make sure your changes look like you expect them to, before you click "Save Page".
- 1 Electronics Tray
- 2 Outlets and Power Supply
- 3 Final Connections
- 4 References
Intro Paragraph here maybe with a link to the main PriusPlus article, links to external sites can appear as formatted CalCars, just plain URLs like http://www.calcars.org, or fancy references such as that in the next paragraph.
Another Paragraph and such, you can get help at our Help:Contents#How do I use the Wiki Website page <ref>http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Help:Contents more help using the wiki.</ref> Feel free to simply remove or if you like move all of this example text to the pages discussion article.
Warning: This list is a very much a work-in-progress!
DigiKey Parts List
Parts list for High Power Schematic
- Download the Digikey HV parts list Media:EAA-PHEV-PRIUS-HVPartsList.zip (Excel spreadsheet)
The diode must be firmly and correctly mounted to the heatsink. The diode has a 1/4" stud which passes through the heatsink but does not touch the heatsink. A shoulder or insulating nylon tube must be placed over the stud where the diode passes through the heatsink. This is important so the diode does not electrically make contact with the heatsink. Additionally, 2 electrically insulating, but thermally conductive pads (or mica) must be used on both sides of the heatsink to prevent the diode from making contact on either side of the heatsink. See photos below for how to mount the diode:
Solder together one lead of the .47uF, 500V capacitor and one lead of the 22 ohm 1 watt resistor. Put heat shrink tubing around the other 2 leads and crimp on ring terminals and solder the crimps to the leads for a better connection. The snubbers are then placed across the two contactors.
Low Voltage Interconnects
A list of helpful Molex connector tools on DigiKey can be found here.
Outlets and Power Supply
3 12x15 50 watt heating pads $15-20/ea
Connecting the PbA batteries
- Qty 50 8 AWG crimp on 1/4"(<- check this) ring terminals (probably wise to get a few extra!)
- 8 AWG wire (list total length used here.)
- Orange electrical tape
- 20x BB Battery EVP20-12B 12volt 20ah SLA AGM batteries (2 spares recommended.)
Tapping into OEM Battery
This step MUST be performed by someone qualified to work on high voltage systems. Rated rubber electricians gloves should be used for working on the inside of the battery. Please fully read the Safety section before before attempting anything. Lethal voltages are present. Hire a qualified professional for this portion.
This section is not finished
- Voltmeter (capable of at least 300 volts DC)
- 3 #6 AWG ring terminal crimps (an extra is good)
- 2 #8 AWG ring terminal crimps (extras are good)
- small 1 foot section of 6 AWG wire (with insulation rated 600v or higher, preferably THHN)
- non-conductive rubber cap
- electrical tape
- several feet of #8 AWG wire with insulation rated 600v or higher
- optional: 3/8" flex tubing
- optional: other flexible conduit
- Before attempting to open the OEM battery, the orange service disconnect MUST be fully removed from the OEM battery. To do this, lift up on the orange ring. Once it pops up, push the top part out, away from the battery. This will remove the service disconnect from the battery. Do not re-install the service disconnect until the OEM battery has been closed up. BE AWARE, THERE ARE STILL HIGH, LETHAL VOLTAGES INSIDE THE BATTERY EVEN THOUGH THE DISCONNECT HAS BEEN REMOVED!
- Take off the support holding the OEM battery in place. The bolts are found on the driver's side wheel well, on the OEM battery and behind the driver's side rear seat top (the seat top must be removed, see above for information on removing the seat back.)
- Carefully remove the bolts holding the cover on the driver's side of the OEM battery. The 2 bolts will need to be removed from where the orange cables come out of the battery to remove the cover. DO NOT TOUCH ANYTHING INSIDE
- Once opened, just beyond where the two orange wires enter the OEM battery there are 2 contactors with 2 white plastic shields on top. NEVER TOUCH THE TWO TERMINALS AT THE SAME TIME Using rated, insulated electrician's rubber gloves remove one of the white plastic pieces by lifting straight up. Using a voltmeter, test the DC voltage between the contactor terminal and ground. If voltage is present (often > 100 volts DC) keep the multimeter on the terminal until the voltage decreases to below 1 volt. After that has been done on one, remove the other white plastic piece and repeat for the other side. Then check the voltage between all of the contactor terminals (all 4) to ensure they are zero. This step must be repeated any time the orange service plug has been inserted into the battery to ensure safety.
- Disconnect the negative wire coming from the OEM battery from the contactor. It is the one fed through the hall effect sensor (see photo.) The wire must be removed from the hall effect sensor.
- Take the piece of 6AWG wire with a 6AWG ring connector firmly attached at both ends and feed it through the hall effect sensor and connect it to the contactor where you just removed the OEM negative battery wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
- Feed in the new #8 AWG wire from the electronics tray through the opening where the 2 orange wires come through. Attach a #8 AWG ring connector to the wire. It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
- Bolt the #6 wire from the negative contactor, the negative wire from the OEM battery and the negative #8 AWG (black) wire from the electronics tray together as shown using a lockwasher (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
- Then wrap tightly with electrical tape (preferably orange), so that the entire assembly is covered with several layers of tape.
- Place a rubber cap on the top and wrap the rubber assembly in tape and attach firmly to the rest of the wire.
- Next, crimp on a #8 AWG ring terminal to the #8 Red wire coming from the electronics tray.
- Remove the bolt on the positive contactor's terminal and add the #8 AWG wire as shown (see photo.) It is very important that this is tight and makes good contact.
- Replace the white insulators that came off the top of the contactors
- Route the wire in the same way as the black wire out area where the 2 orange wires run
- Make sure there is a little slack wire inside the OEM battery. Then, optionally wrap the 3/8" flex tubing around the 2 new wires to the electronics tray and wrap them in orange electrical tape (orange is keeping in standard for high voltage wiring in hybrids.)
Safety Warning & Tips
Batteries can be dangerous and can cause serious injury or death and should only be worked on by persons qualified to do so. Both energy hazards from arcs (shorts) and electrical shock can cause serious injury or be fatal with a battery pack of this size. Battery packs are always live and cannot be shut off! The following are safety tips to help prevent arcs and shocks, but they are only tips and should not be taken as a go-ahead to perform work on battery packs. Extreme caution must be taken as it is very easy to accidentally set something on the battery without thinking or drop something and cause a shock or arc. Hire a qualified electrician to help for this part if there is any doubt.
- Remove all jewelry, especially gold, before working with batteries.
- Do not allow metal to come into contact with the batteries that could cause an arc (best practice is to not allow any metal near the battery at all.
- Use only fully insulated tools around batteries, especially in tight spaces (available in the electrical department in most hardware stores.)
- When wiring batteries, be sure the other end of the wire will not accidentally come into contact with any other part of the battery or metal frames. Taping or otherwise protecting the ends of wires is recommended.
- Wear rated rubber electricians gloves and outer protective gloves. Electricians gloves are not fail-proof and every effort should be made to only touch insulated tools even when wearing gloves.
- If electrician gloves aren't used, only one hand should be used so that a shock will not pass current through the heart.
- Always wear gloves when working on batteries (preferably rubber.)
- Install the jumpers in 48 volt sections and then connect those smaller sections together at the very end. This way voltages higher than 48 volts are only handled when installing 4 jumpers instead of 16.
- Even though the batteries are sealed, it is still possible for them to leak and splatter acid, especially if they are just charged, heated or an arc occurs. If a leak occurs, use baking soda to neutralize the acid and properly dispose. Eye protection is a good idea.
- Orient batteries in the tray to avoid terminal contact with any bolts or any metal pieces.